Day 6
We were awakened this morning by brilliant sunshine and a crystal clear sky.
Robin and I ate a quick breakfast so we could head out with our dirty laundry and beat the crowd. However there was already a line when we got there. I guess everyone is taking advantage of this unusual opportunity.
After laundry detail we all met up with Sir James for a tour of the Dingle peninsula. We couldn't ask for better weather. This morning we also met up with Tim Collins who is our local guide for the Dingle Peninsula. Tim was the police chief of Dingle until he retired in the mid 90's. Today he has us in custody and we like him immediately. He has the perfect combination of Irish humor and boundless knowledge of Dingle peninsula history.
Dingle Laundry
Tim explains that prior to the late 60's the Dingle Peninsula was a very sleepy area not known outside of Ireland. Tim said "the only thing selling in Dingle were suitcases". That changed forever in 1969 when the movie "Ryan's Daughter" was filmed there. The beautiful vistas in the movie created a new industry, tourism, practically overnight.
Our first stop is Dunbeg Fort, an Iron Age stone fort perched right at the edge of the cliff overlooking the ocean. There is no way the fort will be invaded from that direction so they could concentrate on defending it from inland. While we are here we introduce ourselves to the four-legged locals.
Tim Collins
Our next stop was the Blasket Island Centre. The center is a wonderful facility established to document the history and culture of the Blasket Islands and particularly Great Blasket Island, which stand just off the coast from the center. I could have easily spent an entire day here listening to the guides, watching the videos and looking at the displays.
Dunbeg Fort local
Tom Collins then took us to the Reask Monastic Site. The ruins at this site show the remains of a stone oratory and four stone huts. In addition there are several standing stones including a large one with a Greek cross carved into it.
And those gathered beneath it never fall out.
Gallarus Oratory (click to see inside)
One of the more popular stops on our Dingle peninsula tour was Gallarus Oratory. With Tim Collins as the mother hen, we all followed into the structure so that Tim could explain how it was built. It is believed to be an early Christian church built between the 6th and 9th century. It is really an amazing structure built without mortar with each of the stones sitting a little lower on the outside than on the inside much like roof shingles so any rain runs off the structure. With the inside lit only from light coming in the door and small window, there really is a spiritual feeling to the building.
Kilmalkedar Ogham Stone
Our last stop on Tim's magical mystery tour was Kilmalkedar Church, a 12th century Hiberno-Romanesque church. One of the interesting features on the church grounds is an ogham stone with a hole near the top. Generally, ogham stones are used as a means to record the ancient Irish language. This stone had that, but in addition, according to legend, people would touch thumbs through the hole to seal a contract. It was also used to renew marriage vows. Many of our group took advantage of this free service.
We thanked Tim Collins for a wonderful tour as Sir James dropped him off. Once again, the local guide proves his worth and makes all the difference between really learning about an area and "looking at some interesting ruins". I think that might be the most valuable travel lesson I've learned from Rick Steves.
Dinner this evening was a group shindig at Fentons, one of the nicest restaurants in Dingle. As is becoming the norm, the food was fantastic. I had lamb, one of my other favorites. We finished dinner with cobbler that must have come straight from heaven. What can be better than good food, good friends and shared experiences?
Eoin Duignan and Tony Small at St. James Anglican Church
Speaking of better, dinner was followed by a concert at the little St. James Anglican Church. Pat O. found out about this concert in advance and was nice enough to pick up tickets for everyone that was interested. Once again we had the opportunity to see Eoin Duignan perform on the Uilleann pipes, this time without a mob of people in the way. In addition to Eoin, there were several other musicians including Tony Small on guitar and Jon Sanders on bouzouki. A bouzouki is related to a mandolin but has a long neck. This concert was really popular with the locals and we were very lucky Pat O. had purchased our tickets in advance.
While watching Eoin on the pipes, I suddenly remembered something Mark Wale had told us on the Musical Pub Crawl back in Dublin (it seems like weeks ago). He said "if you get the opportunity to watch someone performing on the Uilleann pipes watch their face. The pipes are very difficult to play and it takes complete concentration. They almost look like they're in pain." That describes Eoin exactly. He had started out the evening on little tin flutes and he looked like he was enjoying it. However the moment he changed to the Uilleann pipes his demeanor changed. Regardless of how his face looked his music was mesmerizing. Music in Ireland is everywhere and I love how it weaves it's way through daily life.
O'Flaherty's Pub
On the way back to the B&B we stopped at one of Pat O's favorite pubs, O'Flaherty's and had a pint. O'Flahertys is a wonderful old traditional pub like you expect them all to be. The place was packed and the reason was easy to see. Here too was trad music, with banjo, guitar and accordion. I LOVE this town! Like at most pubs there isn't a stage. The musicians just sit around a table and play.
This was a wonderful day and I'll be sad to leave Dingle tomorrow. I can see why this is many traveler's favorite part of Ireland. It might also be mine.
